Thursday, July 9, 2009

A Chocolate World: Assisi Panforte al Cioccolate

I returned from my Franciscan pilgrimage in Italy a few weeks ago. Though it was an excellent experience, I was disappointed by one thing = I did not find the types of chocolate desserts I was craving. In others words, no chocolate cake, or at least, not the type of chocolate cake which I am accustomed. (Remember, chocolate cake is my vegan exception!)

Instead of the "traditional" American chocolate cake, I found an Italian "chocolate cake," which is different from what I expected (see right). I originally didn't care for the taste, but upon further trials, I have since grown to appreciate and enjoy this newly discovered chocolate dessert. Yet, when push comes to shove I still prefer a slice of dark, moist, subtly bittersweet chocolate cake, which is rich, but not overly dense, topped with a dark chocolate frosting. And when vegan, even better.

Walking by numerous bakeries on the streets of Assisi, I saw many pastries filled with chocolate, but only found two places that featured something that looked like the chocolate cake I was looking for. Though the two desserts looked virtually the same, at one place this chocolate delight was called "salame" and at another place it was called "panforte al cioccolato."

Traditionally, an Italian panforte is an Italian version of a fruitcake. A chocolate version simply puts cocoa in the recipe. Since fruitcake is not my dessert of choice, a "panforte al cioccolato" was not something that sounded appetizing so I initially passed on trying it when I saw it in the bakery window.

Traditionally, "salame al cioccolato" is a no bake chocolate dessert in the shape of a salami. But the "salame" I saw in the bakery window at the Gran Caffe in Assisi was not sausage-shaped, but looked like a thicker version of a traditional chocolate panforte. In essence, it looked like a chocolate cake with nuts (see left). Not understanding what this chocolate dessert could be, I needed to give it a try. It looked very promising.

One bite however proved that this did not taste like a traditional chocolate salame, which is essentially chocolate, nuts, and biscotti crumbs. This salame had an orange kick, which I did not expect. It was panforte-like. However, It did not have the additional fruit which one would expect in your traditional chocolate panforte.

I was a bit confused, and unfortunately, no one could explain what this chocolate delicacy was as each person defaulted to describing the traditional salame and panforte.

After a few bites, I discovered that I was enjoying this unique Assisi delight. The orange zest (which was growing on me) complemented the chocolate, which was more semi-sweet than bittersweet. The cake consistency was not your typical baked cake moist, but dense with a subtly sticky cookie-like texture, with small chunks of nuts mixed through out, peppering the dark brown coloring. (Texturally in many ways it looked like a vegan chocolate Larabar and my raw vegan chocolate cake.) The entire round dessert was laid on a layer of edible sugar paper, and topped with a layer of dark chocolate, cut into cake-shaped slices

Aside from the orange kick, this chocolate dessert tasted like what I would expect in a traditional salame al cioccolato. Unfortunately, I was not able to find a traditional salame on this trip in which to compare.

So what is this Assisi dessert? I don't know, but with the orange zest, I see it as an Assisi version of a traditional panforte al cioccoloto. As I now reflect on this chocolate discovery, my taste buds are craving this unique chocolate cake, as I remember 9 magical days last month in the beautiful Umbrian city of Assisi.

Next post:
Hot chocolate from LaVerna, Italy

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